Calleva Atrebatum – Photographing the Roman Town at Silchester
A personal photographic journey through the ancient landscape of Calleva Atrebatum, where the Roman walls of Silchester stand quietly among the fields and woodland of North Hampshire.
Where History Meets the Landscape
I first walked the ancient walls of Calleva as a child. Over the years I’ve returned many times, often with a camera in hand, drawn back by the quiet atmosphere of this remarkable place.
For me, Calleva is more than a historic site. It is a landscape that changes with the seasons: mist moving across the fields, low winter light catching the old stone, and the familiar outline of the walls emerging through the trees.
My photographs explore that meeting of history and nature. They are not simply records of ancient remains, but personal impressions of a place that has been part of my life for as long as I can remember.
Calleva Atrebatum at a Glance
Beside the village of Silchester in Hampshire, the remains of Calleva offer a remarkable connection with a town that once played an important role in Roman Britain.
The Story of Calleva
Long before the Roman town was established, this was the site of an important Iron Age settlement associated with the Atrebates, a people whose territory extended across parts of southern Britain. The settlement became a significant centre for trade and activity.
Following the Roman conquest of Britain in AD 43, the settlement developed into Calleva Atrebatum. A planned street grid took shape, with public buildings, shops, workshops, houses and an administrative centre. The town became an important regional centre within Roman Britain.
The town’s defences were developed over time, and much of the surviving circuit of walls dates from the later Roman period. Outside the north-eastern edge of the town stood an amphitheatre, where people gathered for public entertainment.
Unlike many Roman towns in Britain, Calleva was not built over by a later medieval town. It was gradually abandoned, probably between the sixth and seventh centuries. As a result, the outline of the ancient settlement remains unusually well preserved in the modern landscape.
Much of the town itself now lies beneath the ground. The visible walls, earthworks and amphitheatre are reminders of a much larger settlement whose streets and buildings can still be traced through archaeology.
Historical background: English Heritage and the University of Reading’s Silchester Archaeology project.
Silchester Roman Wall – Misty Dawn
There is something special about arriving at Calleva in the early morning, when the mist softens the landscape and the ancient wall seems to emerge slowly from the surrounding countryside.
This photograph captures one of those quiet moments, when the history of the place and the atmosphere of the landscape seem to meet.
Discover the story behind the photograph, including the conditions and thoughts that shaped the image.
Read the Behind the Lens story View the fine art printExploring Calleva Through Books
My connection with Calleva has also grown into a series of photographic books. Each explores the ancient town and its surrounding landscape from a different perspective.
Calleva: A Year Inside the Walls
A Photographer’s Field Notes from the Roman Town of Silchester and the Ancient Hampshire Landscape
A year spent observing the changing character of Calleva, recording its walls, paths, seasons and quiet details through photography.
Find the book on Amazon UK
Echoes of Calleva
Landscapes Beyond the Stones
A photographic exploration of the wider landscape surrounding the ancient town.
Find Echoes of Calleva on Amazon UK
Where the Wall Whispers
Calleva Atrebatum – Black & White Film Photography
A quieter, monochrome interpretation of the ancient walls and their timeless atmosphere.
Find Where the Wall Whispers on Amazon UKExplore my other photographic publications on the Books & Publications page.
Calleva in Motion
Photography captures a single moment, but film allows the atmosphere of a place to unfold. These short films and a longer feature offer another way to experience the ancient landscape of Silchester.
A short visual impression of the landscape and atmosphere around Calleva.
Another glimpse of the ancient site, seen through the photographer’s eye.
A further short film exploring the quiet character of this historic place.
A longer photographic film celebrating Calleva, Silchester and the surrounding Hampshire landscape.
Discovering Calleva Atrebatum
Some quick answers for anyone discovering the Roman town and considering a visit.
What was Calleva Atrebatum?
Calleva Atrebatum was an important Roman town in what is now Silchester, Hampshire. It developed from an earlier Iron Age settlement and became a regional administrative and trading centre in Roman Britain.
Where is Calleva Atrebatum?
The archaeological site lies beside the modern village of Silchester in North Hampshire, north-east of the present village centre.
Are the Roman walls at Silchester still standing?
Yes. Much of the circuit of Roman town walls survives, making Silchester one of the best-preserved examples of Roman town defences in England.
Can you visit the Roman town of Calleva?
Yes. The walls and amphitheatre are open to visitors. The site is reached on foot, and paths can be uneven or muddy. Check the latest visitor information before travelling.
Is there an amphitheatre at Silchester?
Yes. The remains of the Roman amphitheatre lie just outside the north-eastern edge of the town. Its earth banks and arena outline can still be seen today.
Why was Calleva Atrebatum abandoned?
The exact reasons are not fully understood. Evidence suggests that the town was gradually abandoned between the sixth and seventh centuries, rather than being destroyed in one known event.
Where can I find more information about visiting Silchester?
English Heritage provides current visitor information, including access details, parking and site guidance. The University of Reading’s Silchester Archaeology project also provides historical information and a guide to the site.
English Heritage visitor information · University of Reading visitor guide
Discover Calleva Through My Photography
Explore the photographs inspired by the Roman walls, surrounding landscape and changing seasons of Silchester. Each image offers a different perspective on this remarkable corner of North Hampshire.
Explore the Calleva photography collectionA Place I Keep Returning To
Some places become part of our story. Calleva is one of those places for me. From childhood walks to returning with a camera, the ancient walls have remained a constant source of inspiration.
I hope these photographs, books and films give you a sense of why this quiet corner of Hampshire continues to mean so much to me.
Stephen Paul Young
Photographer · North Hampshire